A ruffle of white at the top of a high boot, an insert of lace at the neck, a prim blouse half undone — that was the message of a powerfully seductive show from Altuzarra.
Aphrodisiac emanating from a touch of lace was just one way that this designer brought intrigue and allure to a collection of streamlined, well-cut clothes.
With this sophisticated mix, more typical of the designer’s French roots than to American style, Joseph Altuzarra has become a New York fashion star.
“Eighteenth-century dandies and Truman Capote’s ‘swans’ — and their mutual love of dressing,” said the designer to explain his mix of tactile materials. They included fluffy furs in sorbet colours, sweaters with cable stitching cuddling the breast line, and deep-pile devoré velvet nudging lacquered lace.
At the beating heart of this collection was Altuzarra’s feminised tailoring. Even the cut of a blouse, with a key hole slit from throat to chest, served to enhance the show’s boudoir glamour.
It could have seemed over-the-top sexiness — especially with those frilly boot tops, flouncy hems and lace-up boots. But Altuzarra’s rare fashion sophistication puts his work in a class of its own.