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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Anodised Aluminium

Issey Miyake’s futuristic London space

20 Октября 2014

The serpent curl of white pleats whirled into shape as designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae brought the latest Issey Miyake outfit to life with a magical 3D steam-stretch technique.
Against a setting of lagoon-blue walls, intenselycoloured panels created from anodised aluminium, a new Issey Miyake London store opened its doors at 10 Brook Street.
Let’s call it an art house. For Japanese architect Tokujin Yoshioka has done so much more than place eight different product categories from the Miyake empire in the new 5,000 sq ft store that opened last week.
Miyake womens wear designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae showing his Steam Stretch creation
Miyake womens wear designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae showing his Steam Stretch creation
“Incorporating the trace of time cultivated in the space,” said the architect, referring to the futuristic aluminium, made in Germany and anodised in Switzerland. That metallic colour and texture contrasted with the concrete pillars of the former bank, taken back to a raw, pock-marked state.
Suzy and Miyake  womenswear designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae
Suzy and Miyake womenswear designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae
Other pieces designed by Tokujin included the “Hexagon” steel, beveled-glass tables and larger black coated-steel tables called “Element”.
 
As with the inventive interior work — so with the clothes.
Architect and designer Ron Arad, who first knew Yoshiyuki Miyamae from Miyake’s Tokyo studio, congratulated the designer on his playful forms and original colour combinations.
Other artistic people from Deyan Sudjic, director of the Design Museum, to Claire Wilcox, curator of textiles & Costume at the V&A and of its forthcoming Savage Beauty exhibition, toured the store.
 
These potential customers looked at vivid geometric patterns on sweaters or the texture of what could have been acolourful spider’s web on a masculine tailored jacket.
With more categories — usually only on sale in Japan — available in this London store, including Homme Plissé Issey Miyake and Tokujin Yoshioka’s furniture, the architect seemed prescient when he spoke of “innovative creation and continued history”.

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