You are viewing the Russian Vogue website. If you prefer another country’s Vogue website, select from the list

Хотите получать уведомления о самых важных новостях из мира моды? Да, подписаться

Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Antonio Marras: The Artistic Touch

Milan Fashion Week Day Four

21 Сентября 2014

The bicycle tyres on set, interspersed with bony hands and elongated fingers, should have given a clue — even without going backstage at the Antonio Marras show and seeing his mood board of the Italian outsider artist Carol Rama.

In my ignorance, I had read only a preview of the current exhibition of the 96-year-old artist’s work at Nottingham Contemporary in England, ahead of major retrospectives in Barcelona and Paris.
“She was the creative spark. For me it was the dichotomy between different elements, the explosion of flowers, hands, pleats,” said Marras.

From his programme notes, I understood that he had personal knowledge of this artist whose work was an intimate vision of her troubled life. Her art is a response to the suicide of her father after his tyre factory failed (hence the bicycle set), and the complex female sexuality she saw when visiting her mother at the ‘mad house’.

I admire the sincerity of Antonio Marras as a truly original designer. But has the connection between art and fashion been pushed too far?
Dresses with three-dimensional flowers at the front were beautiful, artistic and no doubt had some deeper meaning for Marras himself.

In a different spirit, there was tailoring with blue and red horizontal stripes — and the same colours for full-skirted dresses. Emphasis on the waist is a Marras signature, and his collaboration with jewellery designer Monica Castiglioni for the jewellery resulted in striking pieces.
The show was often charming, always tasteful in an unconventional way. But, fundamentally, fashion — even when it’s expressing a designer’s deepest thoughts — is an applied art. And ultimately, this was a summer collection of light, bright and wearable clothes.

Instagram @SuzyMenkesVogue
Twitter @SuzyMenkesVogue
Facebook.com/SuzyMenkes

смотрите ТАКЖЕ

Dolce & Gabbana: Double Vision
english

Dolce & Gabbana: Double Vision

In conversation at London’s famous fashion school, Central Saint Martins, Dolce & Gabbana told their story

Chloé’s Free Spirit Lives On
english

Chloé’s Free Spirit Lives On

Paris Fashion Week Day Five

Свободолюбивый дух Chloé
русский

Свободолюбивый дух Chloé

Неделя моды в Париже: день пятый

еще в разделе Suzy Menkes

Antonio Marras: The Artistic Touch

Aquilano Rimondi: A Different Take on Matisse

Milan Fashion Week Day Four

Antonio Marras: The Artistic Touch

Antonio Marras: штрих художника

Неделя моды в Милане: день четвертый

комментарии /


самое популярное

В день рождения Коко Шанель вспоминаем знаменитых клиенток Дома
Новости В день рождения Коко Шанель вспоминаем знаменитых клиенток Дома

Грейс Келли, Элизабет Тейлор, Брижит Бардо, Жаклин Кеннеди, Грета Гарбо и Глория Свенсон

Актриса Юлия Хлынина в съемке для Alla Pugachova
Новости Актриса Юлия Хлынина в съемке для Alla Pugachova

Модные семидесятые в осенне-зимней коллекции «Эконика»


подписка на журнал

Для Вас все самое интересное
и свежее в мире моды

VOGUE на планшете

Свежий номер журнала
по специальной цене

VOGUE на iphone

Скачайте
по специальной цене!

VOGUE коллекции

Для iPhone
и iPad

Vogue Россия
в Facebook

Vogue Россия
в Vkontakte

Vogue Россия
в Twitter

Видео-канал
VOGUE Россия

vogue россия
в instagram

Instagram

Самые яркие
фото VOGUE.ru