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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Brash Berlusconi Sexism Is Over

Designers in Italy make decency the key

23 Июля 2014

Designer Julia Voitenko takes a bow in front of her Esme Vie collection at Altaroma. Credit: Luca Sorrentino
Designer Julia Voitenko takes a bow in front of her Esme Vie collection at Altaroma. Credit: Luca Sorrentino

It is almost a year since Silvio Berlusconi, who had been Italy’s long-serving prime minister, was sentenced for tax fraud and banned from public office.

Silvio Berlusconi takes it on the chin. Credit: Getty Images
Silvio Berlusconi takes it on the chin. Credit: Getty Images

Since his attitude to women and his role as a television mogul had given Italian female presenters a hyped-up, over-sexed glamour, it is a relief to see that the Berlusconi look is on the wane.

Two of the up-and-coming designers at Altaroma pursued a path of grace and decency, which seemed fresh and fashion-worthy for spring 2015.

Greta Boldini. Credit: Luca Sorrentino
Greta Boldini. Credit: Luca Sorrentino

Greta Boldini designers Michela Musco and Alexander Flagella’s presentation of pale, softly tailored, streamlined outfits brought in porcelain colours from cream to china blue, mint green to coral. The fabrics came with a sheen giving them the translucent effect of mother-of-pearl.
 
Greta Boldini. Credit: Luca Sorrentino
Greta Boldini. Credit: Luca Sorrentino

The inspiration was David Lynch’s "Mulholland Drive", the musical melody of Lana Del Rey and the concise emotion of Edward Hopper’s paintings.

Michela Musco and Alexander Flagella of Greta Boldini. Credit: Desiree Bazzo/Luca Sorrentino
Michela Musco and Alexander Flagella of Greta Boldini. Credit: Desiree Bazzo/Luca Sorrentino

I liked the easy modern elegance of the dresses, and of tops with narrow trousers or full skirts – all suggesting the reality of twenty-first-century women’s lives.

Esme Vie
Esme Vie

At Esme Vie, designer Julia Voitenko had taken her look forward, drawing a full, feminine wardrobe from short, princess-line dresses to a similarly ladylike look where gowns swept downwards (but didn’t look retro).


The feminine colours included all shades of rose from pink to wine, and pastel blue or deeper turquoise. Floral decoration at the neck had a certain innocence.

Both designers make clothes with the fine fabrics of the Italian heritage. And they proved that there are more facets to fashion than the Berlusconi in-your-face females.


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