Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
London Fashion Week Day Four
16 Сентября 2014
There was no missing the insect influences crawling over the Burberry collection. First there was the colourful carpet with the word “insect” written across the runway and a drawing of a large and livid creature scurrying across.
Then there were the creepy crawly colours: the juicy red of lady bugs for an ethereal dress; wasp yellow for scaly paillettes; and for accessories that particular metallic, gleaming green of Egyptian scarabs.
The clothes that opened the show were skirts in the lightest of mesh, the kind used as mosquito nets, offered up in many layers. They were topped off by closely-fitted denim jackets, while the feet were in that shoe fashion of the moment: sneakers. They too came in eerie insect colours.
The live voice of James Bay singing Christopher Bailey’s familiar choice of soulful music made the event seem poetic and intriguing.
But what did it all that have to do with Burberry the brand? Needless to say, the famous house check was nowhere on the agenda. But cut to the show’s kernel and there were raincoats, the waists tied in tulle as fine as wings and with a bee painted on one shoulder to keep the insect story going.
The energy was in the exceptional colours and the way they might be faded and shaded on the layers of net skirt, while bolder pieces spelled out “insects”, as on the runway floor.
Burberry shows currently feel that they are not just for the audience, even through the front row featured, among other A-listers, let’s-have-fun models Kate Moss and Cara Delevingne, the actress Naomi Harris and photographer Mario Testino.
But I couldn’t help thinking how great this “The Birds and The Bees” show must have looked live-screened in collaboration with YouTube. The colours! The glamour! The beautiful bugs! Full marks to Christopher Bailey for creating such an immersive experience and for making insects seem so cute.
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