The visible stitches were so fine, like a skeletal tracing of the body on a perfectly tailored jacket, that it seems churlish to say, “Yawn! Seen it all before.”
Cédric Charlier has a naive way of presenting his offering as though he had invented it. Yet he executes these not-so-original ideas so well that his approach is forgivable.
The basting-stitch jacket that opened the show was partnered with satin, horizontal striped trousers, and a line of gilded satin made the look a glam one. Although, perhaps inevitably with this ‘stitches’ story, bits of fabric hung around a skirt hemline.
The undone, outside/inside look, which must have been around at least since Margiela brought it to the runway two decades ago, was executed by Charlier with refreshing colour combinations like turquoise with grass green or flame red.
Feathery fringes around cut-out knits were a different way of following the body’s lines, and were neat and tidy in spirit compared to Rei Kawakubo’s aggressive ‘destroyed’ look.
But Charlier worked it his way, especially in the final third of the show where layers of frills on pretty dresses were discreetly done.