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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Chanel's Salzburg Fairy Tale

Each Year Chanel has a collection named  the Métiers d’Art to reveal the glory of its workshops and to push creativity to its limits.  

9 Декабря 2014

Karl Lagerfeld and Cara Delevingne, wearing a tiered white lace dress, walk through the Schloss Leopoldskron for the finale © Olivier Saillant
Karl Lagerfeld and Cara Delevingne, wearing a tiered white lace dress, walk through the Schloss Leopoldskron for the finale © Olivier Saillant

The stalls were alive with the sound of Mozart; the Christmas market laden with Glühwein, gingerbread and glitter.
 
Salzburg, with its grey stone buildings and dark river, looked like the picture-postcard that Karl Lagerfeld had drawn as the Chanel invitation.
 
And at the Schloss Leopoldskron, the fashion fairy tale was played out as if in a painted landscape. In the foreground, Heidi figures with apron dresses and white blouses carried trays of sweetmeats. On the tables, autumnal fruits were piled high. And through the windows, light was reflected on the lake’s still water. 

The invitation for the Paris-Salzburg show illustrated by Karl Lagerfeld for this year’s Paris-Salzburg Chanel Métiers d’Art 2014/15 © Karl Lagerfeld
The invitation for the Paris-Salzburg show illustrated by Karl Lagerfeld for this year’s Paris-Salzburg Chanel Métiers d’Art 2014/15 © Karl Lagerfeld
 
The effect was glorious — even before the first models in this year’s Paris-Salzburg Chanel Métiers d’Art show walked through the wood-panelled library to the great marble hall, rich with paintings.

The Venitian room at the Schloss Leopoldskron © Olivier Saillant
The Venitian room at the Schloss Leopoldskron © Olivier Saillant
 
No matter that the Chanel people admitted to coaxing the one-time palace back to life, taking the bare rooms, now used for seminars, and re-imagining the opulence and grandeur of the days of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Think of Emperor Franz Joseph and his wife, Elizabeth, known as “Sissi” — a beauty who decorated her lustrous hair with a myriad of diamond and pearl stars.
 
Karl had left no precious stone unturned, from the music books of librettist Hugo von Hofmannsthal’s words for Richard Strauss’s Der Rosenkavalier to the witty and wondrous decorations on the clothes.

The tables were candle-lit and piled high with sweetmeats, autumnal fruits and alluring pastries
The tables were candle-lit and piled high with sweetmeats, autumnal fruits and alluring pastries
 
Here was Cara Delevingne in a tiered white lace dress, poised between elegance and innocence — not to mention her appearance as Sissi – Pharrell Williams at her side, in Karl’s teaser video filmed for this event called Reincarnation.
 
And yet. There was something frustrating about this fantastic collection of handwork. For the audience — and even more so for on-line viewers – it looked like just another collection of good-looking clothes from Karl the Magnificent. Instead of being — as is intended — a showcase for the Métiers d’Art.

Handwork for Look 81: Lemarié (feathers) spent 322 hours of work on the silk organza and chiffon blouse: (waist, wrist and collar); the bolero and the pleated skirt  have woollen strips with lace braids, beads and rhodoid flowers, linked together with sil
Handwork for Look 81: Lemarié (feathers) spent 322 hours of work on the silk organza and chiffon blouse: (waist, wrist and collar); the bolero and the pleated skirt have woollen strips with lace braids, beads and rhodoid flowers, linked together with sil
 
That is a reference to the craftsmen and women at the Paris workplace where Chanel has invested so much in people skills.
 
I was frustrated that there was so little information about how miniature edelweiss were made to sprout from tiny flat shoes or were embroidered on snow-white hose. I had no idea who was the creator of the foams of white lace at chests and wrists; or the haute knits with hand-woven flowers.

Handwork for look 14: the choker is inspired by Austrian embroidery and contains a filigree metal heart, enamelled molten glass and velvet ribbon. It is made by Desrues, the jewellery and button maker. Embroidered cashmere sweater with little flowers made
Handwork for look 14: the choker is inspired by Austrian embroidery and contains a filigree metal heart, enamelled molten glass and velvet ribbon. It is made by Desrues, the jewellery and button maker. Embroidered cashmere sweater with little flowers made
 
As I badgered the Chanel team for details, I discovered that a top patterned with butterflies had required 545 hours of work to create the feather embroideries and place 25,000 sequins. Another apparently simple embroidery mixed feathers, wooden flowers and beads.

Loafers in Look 18  are embroidered with white leather edelweiss, white chenille yarns and small glitter balls by embroiderer Montex © Olivier Saillant
Loafers in Look 18 are embroidered with white leather edelweiss, white chenille yarns and small glitter balls by embroiderer Montex © Olivier Saillant
 
I found on-line a mini video from Chanel showing magical hands at work. But I still wanted more. As we saw them on the runway, the embroidery could have been run up in a factory, not made with human skills.
 
I have decided to post a second story about the airy, modern studios on the outskirts of Paris where I watched the workers stitching the Lesage embroideries and moulding the felt hats, while the Lemarié feathers and flowers were coaxed into embellishments.

Handwork for look 49. Top: 545 hours of work by embroiderer Lesage includes butterflies and feathers embroidered with a “luneville” hook, using 25,000 sequins and micro-beads. Then feathers are added using needlework embroidery, taking 98 hours. Skirt: en
Handwork for look 49. Top: 545 hours of work by embroiderer Lesage includes butterflies and feathers embroidered with a “luneville” hook, using 25,000 sequins and micro-beads. Then feathers are added using needlework embroidery, taking 98 hours. Skirt: en
 
In due respect to Karl, even with precious little information, the show was aesthetically impressive — sharp when it came to the tailoring and sweet for the folklore-decorated dresses.
 
How much of himself did Karl put into this collection — especially in this case of a Germanic cultural background that is also his own?

Handwork for look 50. Dress: 800 hours of work by embroiderer Lesage. Butterflies, peacocks and cockerel feathers  are embroidered with a “luneville” hook, using 86,000 sequins and micro-beads. Then feathers are added using needlework embroidery © Olivier
Handwork for look 50. Dress: 800 hours of work by embroiderer Lesage. Butterflies, peacocks and cockerel feathers are embroidered with a “luneville” hook, using 86,000 sequins and micro-beads. Then feathers are added using needlework embroidery © Olivier
 
When I asked him about the classic leather lederhosen transformed into cute, sexy shorts worn with thigh-high flower-embroidered socks he said:
“As a child, I was dressed like this — of course, this was not really what was worn in Hamburg, but I always liked to be different!”
 
I wish we could have seen a picture of little Karl dressed up like an Austrian princeling. But I did feel that he was deeply engaged in the romantic side of his native land and its neighbouring Salzburg and Tyrol.

A still from the teaser film Karl released ahead of his Chanel Métiers d’art Paris-Salzburg show, with Cara Delevingne as Empress Sissi and Pharrell Williams as Emperor Franz Joseph of the Austro-Hungarian Empire
A still from the teaser film Karl released ahead of his Chanel Métiers d’art Paris-Salzburg show, with Cara Delevingne as Empress Sissi and Pharrell Williams as Emperor Franz Joseph of the Austro-Hungarian Empire
 
Did Coco really get the inspiration for her famous Chanel jacket, as Karl claims, from a liftboy’s uniform she saw when travelling near Salzburg? One of the Chanel people mentioned the recent Wes Anderson film The Grand Budapest Hotel, and I saw something of that movie in the Chanel tailored jackets.
 
The collection was labelled across the blogosphere as “pre-fall”, to fit in with other brand offerings. But I talked to Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion at Chanel, who said, as Karl did too, that the Metiers d’Art collections are much closer to couture. (I understood this to mean in cost as well as workmanship.)

Models strolled through the rooms of the Schloss Leopoldskron rooms for the show
Models strolled through the rooms of the Schloss Leopoldskron rooms for the show
 
“This is a real return to the work of hands — and it is the young who are really interested in going back to those skills,’’ said Pavlovsky.
 
I also spoke to Hubert Barrère of Lesage, who told me that this Salzburg collection was a “gift” because his Paris team of embroiderers had time to research the work of Mozart, von Hofmannsthal, the theatre, the summer festivals and Romy Schneider in the Sissi film from 1955.

Suzy Menkes with Karl Lagerfeld and Hamish Bowles of American Vogue
Suzy Menkes with Karl Lagerfeld and Hamish Bowles of American Vogue
 
I hope someone at Chanel is keeping a record of these 10 years of Metiers d’Art shows, which really are unique both in their craftsmanship and as an expression of Karl Lagerfeld’s imagination.
 
Wait for my next post which will explain how Chanel can create this mesmerising handwork, framed on the runway by the deep cultural knowledge of Karl.

The finale of the Paris-Salzburg collection, 2014/15
The finale of the Paris-Salzburg collection, 2014/15

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