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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Colour! A striking new range from jeweller Solange Azagury-Partridge

Colour!  Jeweller Solange Azagury-Partridge invents «Chromance»

10 Октября 2014

Left: malachite ring set in 18ct gold from the Colourblock range. Centre: lacquer and 18ct-gold ring from the Chromabet range. Right: a diamond and ceramic “Kryptonite”-plated ring set in 18ct gold
Left: malachite ring set in 18ct gold from the Colourblock range. Centre: lacquer and 18ct-gold ring from the Chromabet range. Right: a diamond and ceramic “Kryptonite”-plated ring set in 18ct gold
Surely nothing could be more vivid than that magic carpet of many colours leading up the noble carved staircase at the Carlos Place salon of Solange Azagury-Partridge?
 
The jewellery designer loves every bright shade, for wallpaper or wall paint — as in the sunshine yellow and shocking pink of the rooms where she showed, this week, her latest collection: Chromance.
Laquer and 18ct-gold necklace from the Chromabet range
Laquer and 18ct-gold necklace from the Chromabet range
One glance was all that was needed to understand that Solange’s invented word was all about the romance of colour: shades so bright that the super-natural emerald green, rose pink tourmaline and aquamarine, set in blackened white-gold rings, looked like some primeval survivors of a volcano.
Pink Tourmaline and blackened 18ct white-gold ring from the Chomeo range
Pink Tourmaline and blackened 18ct white-gold ring from the Chomeo range
This was a close encounter of the third kind, with nature at its most intense. The showrooms, dotted with bouquets of flowers and seen in sunlight streaming through windows in plain or stained glass, had an unearthly brilliance.
 
The jewels, in keeping with the Solange spirit, were as surreal as their names. My favourite was Chromaphiliac — earrings in bright bobbles of cabochon-cut stones and a variety of colours from orange to ox-blood. A necklace made in a similar style had the effect of children’s sweeties, heaped artfully together.
Multicoloured cabochon gemstone earrings set in blackened 18ct white-gold from the Chromaphiliac range
Multicoloured cabochon gemstone earrings set in blackened 18ct white-gold from the Chromaphiliac range
«There are lots of juicy cabochon stones — suggesting a real edible quality», said Solange, who, in this first new collection in two years, both re-inforced and enlarged her aesthetic scope.
 
Her attachment to nature came through in a Pomander cluster of fire opals, forming a glowing orange pendant that opened to reveal a small scoop of cloves  inside, as if from a medieval history.
Pomander made of fire opals, which is to be filled with cloves for a scent-trail
Pomander made of fire opals, which is to be filled with cloves for a scent-trail
Some pieces were carved from traditional materials, such as the yellow gold gypsy earrings engraved with wavy circles that were used also for irregularly curved bracelets. One of those, with the mysterious title of El Dorado as Sin, was slipped into a purple silk cover which was designed to shred with time to reveal flashes of gold.
Engraved 18ct-gold earrings from the El Dorado range
Engraved 18ct-gold earrings from the El Dorado range
«My whole jewellery life has been looking at how jewels were made through the ages», said the designer, who has just opened a Paris store (with a pink and purple interior, of course) as part of the Hotel Costes on the Rue Saint-Honoré just south of the jewellers’ haven in the Place Vendôme.
The newley opened boutique in Paris’s Hotel Costes
The newley opened boutique in Paris’s Hotel Costes
It is rare to find, in these days of corporate owners of historic jewellery labels, a modern creator who is also a curator. From the dizzying colours in the catalogue of Chromance, through the jewels that include a ruby bangle with upticks like a heartbeat register, Solange Azagury-Partridge fulfils her mission to make jewels that are inventive but relevant.
Heartthrob bangle made of plique-ā-jour enamel and gold
Heartthrob bangle made of plique-ā-jour enamel and gold
Even the prices are enticing. The big stones and bolder pieces go up to £108,000. But for well under £10,000 there are striking rings and earrings. While «Blades» of diamond and grass green enamel earrings are £5,300.
Laquer and 18ct-gold ring from the Chromabet range
Laquer and 18ct-gold ring from the Chromabet range
The entry point is a «Pink» ring — with those enamelled letters spelled out in lacquer on a yellow-gold ring for £1,500. And you get a view of the store’s magic carpet thrown in.
Staircase at Solange’s Carlos Place boutique, London
Staircase at Solange’s Carlos Place boutique, London

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