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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Dior’s revisits its Couture archive for the Biennale

Victoire de Castellane transforms Dior’s high fashion in to High jewellery

1 Сентября 2014

Bangle, front and back, and earrings, centre, in white gold and diamonds with pink and purple sapphires Credit  Christian Dior Couture
Bangle, front and back, and earrings, centre, in white gold and diamonds with pink and purple sapphires Credit Christian Dior Couture
 
How cute, how clever, how fashion, how Dior!

The jewels, set among the haute-couture clothes that inspired them, was the idea of designer Victoire de Castellane, who not only placed rounded pieces beside Dior’s famous, curvy Bar suit, but made jewels in frills of rubies and diamonds inspired the famous 1947 collection known as the New Look.
 
A matching set of emeralds and diamonds with a bangle made of white gold, diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, demantoid garnets and orangy-pink spinels, all inspired by Dior’s 1947 Bar outfit
A matching set of emeralds and diamonds with a bangle made of white gold, diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, demantoid garnets and orangy-pink spinels, all inspired by Dior’s 1947 Bar outfit
A miniature Dior Bar outfit, with the jewellery it inspired
A miniature Dior Bar outfit, with the jewellery it inspired
Sketch of Dior’s Bar ensemble, spring/summer 1947 haute couture, Corolleline
Sketch of Dior’s Bar ensemble, spring/summer 1947 haute couture, Corolleline
 
These vividly colourful jewels were created with blood-red rubies and inky sapphires facing off diamonds, with all the stones set in white gold.

I was especially drawn by fancy yellow and orange diamonds undulating in drapes inspired by the hipline sketched by Christian Dior for the 1948 season.

So what exactly came out of the inspiration of the curvy white Bar jacket and black pleated skirt? An elegant onyx and jet ring, perhaps?

No! Victoire offered a ring of undulating stones in pretty colours: pink sapphires, emeralds, garnets and purple sapphires, setting off the baguette-cut diamonds. The Dior ateliers took two months to set each band of stones with even more handiwork than a collection of haute couture.

The Archi Dior jewels will be on display at the Biennale de Paris, at the Grand Palais from September 11-21.
Caption Sketch of the Junondress, autumn/winter 1949 haute couture collection, Milieu du Siècleline with, left, a yellow- and pink-gold ring with diamonds, spessartite garnets and pink sapphires Top right: diamond and white-gold earrings. Bottom right: a
Caption Sketch of the Junondress, autumn/winter 1949 haute couture collection, Milieu du Siècleline with, left, a yellow- and pink-gold ring with diamonds, spessartite garnets and pink sapphires Top right: diamond and white-gold earrings. Bottom right: a

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