Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Suzy Menkes at Milan Fashion Week: Day Three
28 Февраля 2015
Think of the Armani empire: it encompasses everything from the designer’s famous beige tailoring, through to clothing inspired by blue sea and sky, through to a sporty, city or vacation look.
But not folklore or ethnic elements. Nor vivid red followed by purple and mauve. So the Emporio Armani show, with its Ikat work and textural effects, seemed like a departure for the designer.
There were mohair dresses, split to the thigh for striding. Even pants came soft, gathered at the top, as if inspired by a faraway culture. Or there were bold appliqué patchwork flowers.
“Crossing Colours” was the title Giorgio Armani gave to his collection. The focus on unusual shades included fur given a tinting and pattern treatment.
Was this an Emporio version of the Seventies hippie de luxe revival so prevalent in current fashion? Or was it a flourish of a statement, on the eve of the company’s 40th anniversary, that he is not ‘Monsieur Beige’?
Whatever the origins of the show, there were some cute and simple pieces, like a black coat, gathered at the pocket hiplines and decorated with just a dash of folklore and colour: a red felt bow.
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