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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Ferragamo’s Ode to Artisans

Milan Fashion Week Day Five

22 Сентября 2014

The purse was an oval shape, its colour a swirling watery green. It toned with a graceful dress streaked with lagoon blue. And by the time I reached backstage at Ferragamo, I had grasped the inspiration: Venetian Murano glass.
In fact, the glass bags on the display table were not the only idea behind the collection of designer Massimiliano Giornetti.
“I was thinking of the world of Salvatore Ferragamo in the Forties, and of all the artisans of Italy working with straw and raw materials.”
 
Giornetti was referring in particular to a historic pair of wedge sandals from the war era, which he translated into modern footwear for spring/summer 2015.
 
In past seasons the designer has tried themed collections. These clothes were just that – gracious and elegant garments, those out-of-fashion words that now seem relevant again.
 
Giornetti mostly used a silhouette that fitted the body at the waist, flaring out at the hemline. Using animal skins, as befits a leather house, there was also very fine knitting that followed the body line on a mid-calf dress.
But the real story was in the artisan work – not just the watery Murano glass effects, but straw woven into a jacket as both a nod to Italy’s exceptional handwork and to Salvatore’s imagination.

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