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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Givenchy: Tyrol Modern

Paris Fashion Week Day Five

29 Сентября 2014

Who are fashion collections for? The audience at Givenchy was worked into an intricate pinball pattern with chairs winding past high, draped stage-set curtains. 

Perhaps the catwalk is now designed mainly for celebrities, their partners, their people and their kids — since Kim Kardashian and baby North, both in sheer black chiffon, seemed to be strategically positioned at the Givenchy show. 
Or maybe the designer Riccardo Tisci was thinking about online, all those myriad viewers for the latest Givenchy collection who can watch and re-live the low-bosomed bodices, leaving ample space for a religious cross and the view from behind — gladiator skirts way up there and boots that left toes and the high thigh dangerously exposed.  
That is what I glimpsed from my vantage point on a raking curve: about 2.1 seconds as the models raced to my left from one turn to another; less than a second as they came back round the corner. My subsequent smartphone images were a total blur and my notebook half a page of scribbles. 
This was, in any sense of the phrase, a “peep show”. I glimpsed a laced-up chest that looked like Heidi had come down from the Tyrolean mountains to a sex club. There were lines of metallic rivets and centurion skirts, which recalled the gladiators and graphic black and white patterns last seen at Fausto Puglisi’s show in Milan. 
The thing I grasped from the clothes was that they were hot — as in sexy — and intricately made with intense workmanship, beautifully executed.  
It did not seem enough for the hour-long wait or to be able to make a judgement on such a fine designer.  

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