You are viewing the Russian Vogue website. If you prefer another country’s Vogue website, select from the list

Хотите получать уведомления о самых важных новостях из мира моды? Да, подписаться

Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Haider Ackermann: Crushed Flowers

Paris Fashion Week Day Four

28 Сентября 2014

“I am in a more tender place in my private life, that’s why it is all so soft, so pink and grey. And why I was thinking flowers – Les Fleurs du Mal,” said Haider Ackermann, referring to Baudelaire’s erotic poetry.
This was after a whisper-quiet show of clothes blending with flesh.
Instead of music starting soft and rising to a crescendo, the sound never grew much above a low hum. And in phase with that, the clothes were soft, gentle, never tortured into shape – even when short skirts morphed into shorts as the fabric wrapped one thigh.
The flowers were like blooms clutched and crushed to the chest, in whorls on a blush-pink silk jacket. That decorative effect, seen on models with identical cropped wigs, was at the heart of this show that included soft pantsuits and dresses.
Paradoxically, because the clothes were more ‘finished’ and put together than in previous seasons, there was less emotion. Haider has often said that he is always looking from afar at women against a horizon. But in this show his woman might step purposefully forward in a tailored pantsuit, the colour burgundy slithering across her body.

For buyers, these clothes – elegantly cut and gracefully stitched – will be a boon after previous shows of vague shapes and floating fabrics.

I liked it a lot, but to me the depth of Haider’s work has always been that something unknown, and left undone.


Instagram @SuzyMenkesVogue
Twitter @SuzyMenkesVogue
Facebook.com/SuzyMenkes

смотрите ТАКЖЕ

Dolce & Gabbana: Double Vision
english

Dolce & Gabbana: Double Vision

In conversation at London’s famous fashion school, Central Saint Martins, Dolce & Gabbana told their story

Haider Ackermann: сломанные цветы
русский

Haider Ackermann: сломанные цветы

Неделя моды в Париже: день четвертый

Chloé’s Free Spirit Lives On
english

Chloé’s Free Spirit Lives On

Paris Fashion Week Day Five

еще в разделе Suzy Menkes

Haider Ackermann: Crushed Flowers

Junya Watanabe: A Journey into Space

Paris Fashion Week Day Four

Haider Ackermann: Crushed Flowers

Undercover: From Light to Darkness

Paris Fashion Week Day Three

Haider Ackermann: Crushed Flowers

Yohji Yamamoto: A Sweet Disorder in the Dress

Paris Fashion Week Day Three

комментарии /


самое популярное

В день рождения Коко Шанель вспоминаем знаменитых клиенток Дома
Новости В день рождения Коко Шанель вспоминаем знаменитых клиенток Дома

Грейс Келли, Элизабет Тейлор, Брижит Бардо, Жаклин Кеннеди, Грета Гарбо и Глория Свенсон

Главные модные фильмы 1930–1940-х годов
Кино Главные модные фильмы 1930–1940-х годов

Любуемся на див золотой эпохи Голливуда — Марлен Дитрих, Кэтрин Хепберн, Ингрид Бергман, Риту Хейворт и других


подписка на журнал

Для Вас все самое интересное
и свежее в мире моды

VOGUE на планшете

Свежий номер журнала
по специальной цене

VOGUE на iphone

Скачайте
по специальной цене!

VOGUE коллекции

Для iPhone
и iPad

Vogue Россия
в Facebook

Vogue Россия
в Vkontakte

Vogue Россия
в Twitter

Видео-канал
VOGUE Россия

vogue россия
в instagram

Instagram

Самые яркие
фото VOGUE.ru