You are viewing the Russian Vogue website. If you prefer another country’s Vogue website, select from the list

Хотите получать уведомления о самых важных новостях из мира моды? Да, подписаться

Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Happy 30th Birthday Jonathan Anderson!

London Fashion Week Day Two

14 Сентября 2014

Next Wednesday, Jonathan Anderson — the latest wunderkind of British fashion – turns 30. But he gave himself a birthday gift in advance: a strong Summer 2015 collection.
The show was good, if not great, and it proved the extraordinary progress of a designer who started with menswear in 2008, showed his first womenswear four years ago, and is now also the creative director of the Spanish Loewe leather brand, owned by LVMH.
The leather influence was already on show, with giant waist-cinchers lapping the body, where JW Anderson’s experimental, papery fabrics might previously have been found. I was pleased to see a new focus on womanly curves rather than sharp angles, but I missed the previous play with digital-age materials.
The designer kept his message under the models’ floppy, broad-brimmed hats. But backstage he sent out a string of one-liners, saying: “pre-psychedelic”, “Britain meets France”, “mother and daughter”, “elements of abstraction”, and “Jacques Tati”.

This last reference was to the director and comic actor from quirky 1950s French films (although Tati’s trademark ‘Monsieur Hulot’ raincoat was nowhere to be seen).
There were cool mixes of tidy mademoiselle tailoring with a twist: gilded buttons on multiple neckties layered down a navy dress; or perfectly tailored sailor pants with the buttons at both front and back. They will surely sail out of the stores.

Jonathan Anderson has learnt fast how to make his penchant for weird cutting seem sophisticated and classy, as in a sailor motif of a giant leather collar spliced with yachting ropes. Other ideas were to play with male-versus-female by inserting visible bras, giving polite tailoring a seductive edge.

Much of the geometry was about scale: giant double-curl collars on a tailored trench. Or about texture, when a tailored version of a top and skirt was in terrycloth – bringing a whole new meaning to the idea of a bathing suit.

My favourite pieces were the simplest: a cotton shirt-dress or a dawn-pink satin top with neck wrap, bare midriff and draped skirt: chic in a French and an international way.

Instagram @SuzyMenkesVogue
Twitter @SuzyMenkesVogue
Facebook.com/SuzyMenkes

смотрите ТАКЖЕ

Dolce & Gabbana: Double Vision
english

Dolce & Gabbana: Double Vision

In conversation at London’s famous fashion school, Central Saint Martins, Dolce & Gabbana told their story

Chloé’s Free Spirit Lives On
english

Chloé’s Free Spirit Lives On

Paris Fashion Week Day Five

Свободолюбивый дух Chloé
русский

Свободолюбивый дух Chloé

Неделя моды в Париже: день пятый

еще в разделе Suzy Menkes

Happy 30th Birthday Jonathan Anderson!

Duro Olowu

Suzy Menkes at London Fashion Week: Day Two

Happy 30th Birthday Jonathan Anderson!

Christopher Raeburn

Suzy Menkes at London Fashion Week: Day One

комментарии /


самое популярное

Мир после антиутопии в нарядах Gyunel Couture
Новости Мир после антиутопии в нарядах Gyunel Couture

Коллекция, вдохновленная романом Джорджа Оруэлла «1984»

В день рождения Коко Шанель вспоминаем знаменитых клиенток Дома
Новости В день рождения Коко Шанель вспоминаем знаменитых клиенток Дома

Грейс Келли, Элизабет Тейлор, Брижит Бардо, Жаклин Кеннеди, Грета Гарбо и Глория Свенсон

Что читают супермодели
Модельный бизнес Что читают супермодели

Кайя Гербер, Синди Кроуфорд и Карли Клосс — берем пример с красивых и начитанных


подписка на журнал

Для Вас все самое интересное
и свежее в мире моды

VOGUE на планшете

Свежий номер журнала
по специальной цене

VOGUE на iphone

Скачайте
по специальной цене!

VOGUE коллекции

Для iPhone
и iPad

Vogue Россия
в Facebook

Vogue Россия
в Vkontakte

Vogue Россия
в Twitter

Видео-канал
VOGUE Россия

vogue россия
в instagram

Instagram

Самые яркие
фото VOGUE.ru