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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Issey Miyake: A Gentle Storm

Paris Fashion Week Day Three

27 Сентября 2014

I was expecting a full-on tempest — a wild tornado whooshing through an Issey Miyake collection entitled ‘Windscape’.

But the collection from designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae was not so much about violence, rather, the inspiration he drew from gentler gusts or, as he put it, “ripples that dapple the surface of seas or the ever-changing contours of majestic sand dunes.”
So that is why a soft white cloud of fabric like surfing foam, with a different version in sunny yellow, was the designer’s look from the latest Miyake fabric invention, 3D steam stretch.

Never mind the technical details, developed from the famous Miyake pleats. The essence is what the audience saw: steam-stretched fabric transformed with contours and creases.
Some of the garments were so effective that I was convinced I was seeing knitwear. Or that the bobbles on a white jacket, top and shorts were done in one of those haute couture, quilted silken fabrics.

The designer is following the master in experimenting from his generational standpoint, creating black and white Madras patterns for a modernised pantsuit or easy ankle-length dress.
Yoshiyuki Miyamae has also started a tradition of live music, channelled through what looked like magnetic cassette tape connected to helium balloons.
In an era when fashion designers constantly have their heads in reference books, reworking the Thirties, Forties or those dreaded Seventies, how refreshing it is to see this eager young designer face-to-face with the future, just like the great Issey Miyake himself.

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