You are viewing the Russian Vogue website. If you prefer another country’s Vogue website, select from the list

Хотите получать уведомления о самых важных новостях из мира моды? Да, подписаться

Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Jil Sander: A New Angle

Suzy Menkes at Milan Fashion Week, AW2015

4 Марта 2015


I have been mulling my review of the Jil Sander collection for some time. Not because I didn’t like the show, but because it encapsulates the essence of fashion regime change. 


After a hesitant start, Creative Director Rodolfo Paglialunga is making a good job of capturing the clean spirit of the founder, who was in and out of her namesake company more times than you can say ‘minimalism’. 


I had a good feeling when I saw the flat runway punctuated by brightly coloured pillars. (Something that Jonathan Saunders did too in London.) 

But Rodolfo made those pillars a pronouncement of his geometric collection. First came tailored coats with a flash of sorbet colours — strawberry and mango — at the neck, and a mannish suit where the long jacket looked too severe for female comfort. 


But then the designer took out his maths toolset and went with diagonal lines. These sharp, angular stripes, sometimes crisscrossing each other, were effective in giving a modern elegance to clothes built on straight lines. 


This is something Jil Sander herself might have done, I thought. And there lies the problem. In fact, in her long fashion journey from chic severity to sweet serenity, Jil was always surprising me. I remember a collection when childish squiggles suddenly appeared among the minimalism. 


But pity the poor follow-up designers, who, if they branch too far from the tree trunk, are seen as abandoning the brand signatures. Too little, and the collection is stagnant. 


I commend Rodolfo for what he has achieved. But I would not wish to be in his colourful boots. 

And there are going to be so many more designers in a similar position as the Italian companies go through the same painful process as the French have already experienced. I wish them all well in these anxious takeovers as famous fashion figures finally leave the stage.


Instagram @SuzyMenkesVogue 
Twitter @SuzyMenkesVogue 
Facebook.com/SuzyMenkes

еще в разделе Suzy Menkes

Jil Sander: A New Angle

Anthony Vaccarello: A Star is Born

Suzy Menkes at Paris Fashion Week Day One

Jil Sander: A New Angle

Valextra, Bally

Suzy Menkes at Milan Fashion Week AW2015

Jil Sander: A New Angle

Scene by Suzy Menkes

Arbesser, Bratis

комментарии /


самое популярное

Самые красивые места Семи королевств,  которые вам нужно посетить прямо сейчас
Путешествия Самые красивые места Семи королевств, которые вам нужно посетить прямо сейчас

Замок, построенный тамплиерами, или крепость, где испанская инквизиция пытала ведьм, — где искать Железный трон?

Что читают супермодели
Модельный бизнес Что читают супермодели

Кайя Гербер, Синди Кроуфорд и Карли Клосс — берем пример с красивых и начитанных


подписка на журнал

Для Вас все самое интересное
и свежее в мире моды

VOGUE на планшете

Свежий номер журнала
по специальной цене

VOGUE на iphone

Скачайте
по специальной цене!

VOGUE коллекции

Для iPhone
и iPad

Vogue Россия
в Facebook

Vogue Россия
в Vkontakte

Vogue Россия
в Twitter

Видео-канал
VOGUE Россия

vogue россия
в instagram

Instagram

Самые яркие
фото VOGUE.ru