You are viewing the Russian Vogue website. If you prefer another country’s Vogue website, select from the list

Хотите получать уведомления о самых важных новостях из мира моды? Да, подписаться

Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Jil Sander: A Return to Androgyny

Milan Fashion Week Day Four

21 Сентября 2014

Following Jil Sander, a founding mother of fashion androgyny, would be hard enough. Coming after Raf Simons, the powerful replacement for Jil in her on/off years, might be even harder.
Designer Rodolfo Paglialunga, now the label’s creative director, started his debut collection in Milan with the concept of “all change”. Simons famously painted Jil’s minimalist show space black and filled it with vases of flowers. Rodolfo played with other areas in the building, giving the audience a through-the-window view of Milan’s famous Sforza Castello.
But opening up the brand to the outside world did not translate into changes on the runway. The show was respectful to Jil Sander’s concept of the masculine morphing into the feminine. Paglialunga brought in all sorts of pieces like tailored shirts, perhaps worn with a sleeveless sweater.
The show was not flooded with trouser suits, because that era has gone. But there were more baggy, sexless shorts than most men (let alone women!) would sign up for.
The tailoring was streamlined and the skirts well cut, some with the graphic patterning that Jil herself tried after one of her three departures and comebacks. There was a vague hint of sporty uniforms in navy and oxblood.
If I were a buyer, I would probably rejoice that Jil Sander, the brand, is back on track with a sleek and comprehensible collection. As a fashion editor, I feel that Rodolfo, who cited his inspiration as Annemarie Schwarzenbach, a 1930s Swiss photographer of androgynous beauty, has now paid his dues to Jil. Next season it will be time to move on.

Twitter @SuzyMenkesVogue

смотрите ТАКЖЕ

Dolce & Gabbana: Double Vision

Dolce & Gabbana: Double Vision

In conversation at London’s famous fashion school, Central Saint Martins, Dolce & Gabbana told their story

Chloé’s Free Spirit Lives On

Chloé’s Free Spirit Lives On

Paris Fashion Week Day Five

Свободолюбивый дух Chloé

Свободолюбивый дух Chloé

Неделя моды в Париже: день пятый

еще в разделе Suzy Menkes

Jil Sander: A Return to Androgyny

Giorgio Armani Plays in the Sand

Milan Fashion Week Day Four

Jil Sander: A Return to Androgyny

Costume National: Sanitising the Seventies

Milan Fashion Week Day Two

Jil Sander: A Return to Androgyny

Versace on a Loop

Milan Fashion Week Day Three

комментарии / 0

оставить комментарий

самое популярное

Вероника Хейлбрюннер выбирает новогодние подарки
Новости Вероника Хейлбрюннер выбирает новогодние подарки

Бархатное платье, бриллианты и настоящая лошадь — волшебной ночью сбываются любые мечты

Главные streetstyle-тренды 2017 года
STREETSTYLE Главные streetstyle-тренды 2017 года

Состязание модных тенденций в шести категориях

подписка на журнал

Для Вас все самое интересное
и свежее в мире моды

VOGUE на планшете

Свежий номер журнала
по специальной цене

VOGUE на iphone

по специальной цене!

VOGUE коллекции

Для iPhone
и iPad

Vogue Россия
в Facebook

Vogue Россия
в Vkontakte

Vogue Россия
в Twitter

VOGUE Россия

vogue россия
в instagram


Самые яркие