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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Junya Watanabe: A Journey into Space

Paris Fashion Week Day Four

28 Сентября 2014

If André Courrèges had married Polly Maggoo, from the 1966 film’s title, what would their progeny look like now – in the 21st century?

Junya Watanabe had the answer with his shiny geometric plates and 3D patent and PVC fabrics. The transparent helmets alone turned his models, with just one eye colourfully made up, into space-age astronauts.
“Graphic march,” said Junya backstage, after the show had closed with a skirt and top in vivid colours that looked almost like tracery of dress-pattern pieces.

The clothes were hard and vaguely futuristic, as the models stomped out on patent platform brogues. But they were not exactly unwearable. More… challenging. Remove the helmet and a yellow dress waffled like an egg box, or a round-shouldered, shiny red patent coat could be teamed with black cigarette pants. That would look modern, and not too other-worldly.
And there were simple things like a T-shirt with a jeans print or another in navy stripes – give or take its Minnie Mouse patent-leather ears at the shoulder.

Junya swings between sporty clothes and experimental collections. This was a big step forward into space. Or maybe that should be cyberspace.

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