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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Maison Martin Margiela: Lost in Translation

Paris Fashion Week Day Three

27 Сентября 2014

The question of whether couture can translate into ready-to-wear was raised by the Dior show.
A couple of hours later, the same issue cropped up at Maison Martin Margiela.
The beauty of the house’s July “Artisanal” show, with its patchworks of historic fabrics arranged to reveal tiny slithers of flesh, was lost in translation.
The premise for Summer 2015 seemed to be, to start, the stretchy gauze that had punctuated “Artisanal”, but now in a starring role.

The hosiery-type fabric stretched here and there over the skin, opening not so much a little window but a wide door on thinly veiled nudity.
Underthings were then blotted out by angular pieces of fabric. This was often rather successful, as when a skirt wrapped around the thighs – not unlike a beach sarong. Yet fabric sliced on a triangle across one thigh was a repetitive and often awkward look.

The semi-nudity faded away as the show developed with prize pieces made of densely patterned fabric. There was plenty to like in the collection, but not to love.

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