Matthew Williamson

Miniature palm trees with branches made of shocking pink feathers rose from gilded trunks — this was the runway backdrop for the Matthew Williamson show. The setting was glamorous, colourful — and from a country hot in every sense.

But while in his younger, Ibiza-loving days the designer’s clothes were always steeped in sexuality, his approach is now more subtle. The peep of skin as blouses were draped to reveal a flash of midriff hit several style targets: primarily the hyper-fashionable shirt, but also the soft trousers and easy skirts that go with it.

The evening dresses might show a leg as the models walked, tossing a waterfall of frills above the flocked carpet runway.

In recent collections there had been an overdose of sequins. For Summer 2015 the sparkle was present but under control. It was the same story for print: big, bold variations on the palm frond, or more garish hibiscus flowers, but often for sporty pieces.

The models exuded what the programme notes described as “relaxed glamour”, inspired by David Bailey’s photos of models from the 1970s, but this seemed too ‘done’ for today’s more casual look.