“This is Not a Moschino Toy” shrieked the T-shirt worn by a teddy bear. But unlike the cartoon characters magnified on sweatshirts on the runway, this particular sign left on the chairs at the show had an important message. ‘Toy’ is the name of the kooky brand’s latest fragrance, and this is where the financial reward (hopefully) flows in.
Jeremy Scott has been Creative Director of Moschino for just over a year and already the Italian house has changed radically. It is not so far from the sparky larks of the original Franco Moschino, who died in 1994, although he had an underlying depth to his signs and symbols.
For Scott it is all Fun! Fun! Fun! He showed puffa coats wider than anyone else’s and colours more deliberately primary and bright with yellow, blue, and green. Quilts were fully stuffed. The baseball effects were vibrant. (Although football would be a better Italian match.)
It is still tough to position the new Moschino in the fashion hierarchy. Is it similar to DSquared, a sportswear brand that has now extended to tailored and evening clothes? But there was no real tailoring at Moschino, although that was once an important strand to the brand. Jeremy did do evening wear, however: cheap ’n’ cheerful long party gowns.
Yet the Jeremy Scott mantra is irresistible. It is almost impossible to leave a Moschino show without wearing a smile. The front row was peppered with the pop music world’s stylists. Be happy that there is one designer who can find fun in fashion.