I had been waiting to see which designer might have been influenced by the stirring ceremonies in France this summer reflecting the end of World War II. And no one could have done that with more delicacy and gentle optimism than Peter Copping at Nina Ricci
He cited that British wartime phrase, “Make do and mend,” but working in Paris at a couture house, the wispy threads at the hem of a fragile lace cocktail dress looked more elegant than in need of repair.
The show started with a square-shouldered jacket and a touch of the 1940s. But opened up by wide set lapels and a split side to a pink skirt, the effect was post-war positive.
Sensual in a subtle way, with wide necks and prints of bulbous tulips, Copping did a fine job of segueing day into night with his pretty but lightweight gowns.
The designer is picture perfect at Nina Ricci, but this is expected to be his last season before he moves to Oscar de la Renta in New York.
Since Copping has that rare skill of making an offering to a woman’s wardrobe each season that is neither dull nor outré, he will be an asset to Oscar, as he is to fashion.