“Organic, curvy, the sensuality of the body,” said Julien Dossena after his much cheered Paco Rabanne
Paco? But wasn’t he famous in fashion for riveted, stiff metallic outfits that looked more like a butcher’s apron than a garment for a woman’s body?
From the start, Dossena remade the label’s image with a sporty sexiness. That metal mesh was translated into a tunic, the hemline scooped up at the front over a plaid dress with an equally curvy hem.
Even if it was just a shirt with a web of stitching or tops layered over flesh above a swinging skirt, everything was expressed in movement. When it finally came to metallic effects, there were narrow pieces of chainmail or ringlets to decorate the hemline.
It is rare to find a designer who is both forward-looking and respectful of a heritage. By translating heavy metal into light sportswear, Paco Rabanne sang a new and powerful song.