To cheers and applause — not least from his loyal creative team — Peter Dundas bowed out from Pucci as creative director, wearing a T-shirt with his Sagittarius sign of the zodiac — the theme of the Autumn 2015 collection.
His fate may already be in the stars, for the word is out that he will join Roberto Cavalli, where he held the role of chief designer between 2002 and 2005.
Laudomia Pucci, daughter of the founder and CEO of the brand in which LVMH owns the controlling stake, would not comment on the Dundas departure. While the designer himself said backstage, without citing a name, that he had signed a new deal.
Who is taking over at Pucci? The smart money is on Massimo Giorgetti of MSGM, the 37-year-old designer who won Vogue Italia’s Who Is On Next? contest five years ago. His proven ability to create a profitable business that is expanding globally would make him an interesting proposition for a luxury brand.
Also his energy and ability to position himself between luxury and main street would certainly cause a shake up at the once-aristocratic house of the late Emilio Pucci.
Dundas followed other designers as creative head of the label, including couturier Christian Lacroix and British designer Matthew Williamson.
In the never-ending game of fashion-designer musical chairs, what did Dundas bring to Pucci in his seven years at the helm?
Embracing the zodiac signs as Pucci prints was smart and original. In fact, the Dundas skill has been to break away from the signature prints with the name ‘Emilio’.
With his Nordic background and holiday home in Greece, Dundas has been able to widen the scope of the fashion house beyond Pucci’s native Florence — sometimes rather too brutally.
But the Dundas connection with Euro It-girls and his ability to produce seductively cut clothes has made him popular with celebrities, and a regular fashion provider for the red carpet.
This season he put some focus on his favourite velvet tailoring, in rich burgundy or navy blue. While white chiffon used for ruffle blouses and floaty dresses were pretty palette cleansers.
But it is the zodiac patterns which will be remembered — along with the cheerful Dundas departure.