The nobility of Rick Owens always gets me. However maddening his venue — up and down a scaffolding of steps — however late, or however much the strangled music sets my teeth on edge, one view of fabric wrapped round the body to create soft sculpture and I am smitten.
The Autumn/Winter 2015 collection was particularly elegant — if that is the correct word for clothes that seemed to be dipped in molten silver, bronze and gold. That metallic coating applied not so much to the cloth — although a black dress had a shining metallic panel at the front — but to the models’ heads, which were dipped in gleaming make-up as if they were space-age sculptures.
The fall of fabric was mostly one-sided, as if a sudden wind had swept the material across the bodice. Occasionally there was a diversion, as when the mass of fabric at the front was hung with hairy ginger fringing.
The clothes seemed to go back to a primeval past when wrap and drape was the way to dress. Yet the effect was ultra modern — and that is the exceptional skill of Rick Owens.