All this sounds rather better in the designer’s own explanation of his theme: “between virginal shyness and blooming sensuality”. It translated as chaste, almost nun-like little collars leading downwards to visible breasts.
After a rather heavy, couture approach last season, the airy lightness was welcome and Dell’Acqua would surely say that a weightless organza belted coat could be worn with a slip underneath in the real world, to cover exposure. Other openings on flesh were beautifully done, as with a round, lace cut-out at the hem of an over-the-knee skirt.
Another idea to draw attention downwards was the footwear: socks and ankle-strap shoes fluttering with metallic green feathers.
The story for Rochas was written in the bold “R” symbol – a rather un-cool flirtation with a logo – and in the fine workmanship, as when little flowers would bud from neck to calf on a simple dress. There were other stories: black, more tailored pieces and a brief glow of gold.
The show had some sense of refreshing Rochas, without finding it a new position in a crowded Paris calendar.