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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Rochas: Lightening up

Paris Fashion Week Day One

25 Сентября 2014

For his second outing at Rochas, designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua has lightened up — and then some! His outfits were, in this order, veiled, sheer and totally transparent, with those putting less flesh on show and leaving more of the bust and body to the imagination looking the most appealing.
All this sounds rather better in the designer’s own explanation of his theme: “between virginal shyness and blooming sensuality”. It translated as chaste, almost nun-like little collars leading downwards to visible breasts.
After a rather heavy, couture approach last season, the airy lightness was welcome and Dell’Acqua would surely say that a weightless organza belted coat could be worn with a slip underneath in the real world, to cover exposure. Other openings on flesh were beautifully done, as with a round, lace cut-out at the hem of an over-the-knee skirt.
Another idea to draw attention downwards was the footwear: socks and ankle-strap shoes fluttering with metallic green feathers.
 
The story for Rochas was written in the bold “R” symbol – a rather un-cool flirtation with a logo – and in the fine workmanship, as when little flowers would bud from neck to calf on a simple dress. There were other stories: black, more tailored pieces and a brief glow of gold.
The show had some sense of refreshing Rochas, without finding it a new position in a crowded Paris calendar. 

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