is in a sweet spot at the same time that he’s in a hard place. The British-based French designer built an international following with his elegantly sexy Forties-style Galaxy dress 14 years ago. Now, he is on the eve of opening a store on Madison Avenue — the Holy Grail for any international designer.
And he seems to have put his heart into creating a confident and flexible collection. The clothes, made up of structural puzzles of seaming, produced strong lines of cut and colour, mostly in those slim, follow-the-body lines that his customers love. In a mix of pink, yellow, white and black, they were geometric masterpieces.
Where colour drained away to grey or black, the effect was less striking, although there was a digital print of a large hibiscus as decoration.
Mindful of his potential clients, the outfits and sandals in colours like purple never took a misstep.
There is still a niggle of concern however. Mouret may be inching forward in terms of fabric textures and ever-more complex colour blocking. But just where this name is going is less certain. If the goal is to hit high sales in New York, with other cities to follow, the current collection is all for the good.
But it might leave Roland Mouret stuck in a certain, ‘glamorous’ place with no obvious forward path.