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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Alexandre Vauthier

Suzy Menkes reports on the Alexandre Vauthier autumn/winter 2014 couture show

11 Июля 2014

Pearls are the jewels most associated with innocence. But there was not much womanly restraint in Alexandre Vauthier's flesh-and-fur collection peppered with pearl-encrusted belts and blouses.

The designer can produce covered-up clothes, cutting a cool pair of narrow trousers and shaping the waist with tiny pleats. But he really trades in skin — the flesh and furry kinds.

A canary-yellow fur chubby with skinny trousers was a strong look. But mostly, there were dare-to-bare outfits: sheer dresses criss-crossed with lines of fabric, or the inevitable leg from a split skirt striding down the striped runway.

Unfair it may be to mention the 'V' word for Versace — but both Gianni and Donatella did this high-wattage sexual exposure first.

Glimpses of delicate workmanship and embroidery suggest that Vauthier really 'gets' couture. But if you show in a dimly lit subterranean car park, it is not surprising that bared legs come out first and best.

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