Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
London Fashion Week Day Four
16 Сентября 2014
Jewelled pasties to cover the essentials, anyone? Sheer black bodices and slithering silver tops? Sex, clogs, rock ’n’ roll?
“Fun,” announced Tom Ford, whose head cold made his sensual voice even more deep, vibrating and alluring.
Yes, it was back to Tom’s super-sexuality in the Nineties, with an injection of the Seventies for platform shoes so thick that the skinny flared pants were raised as if on a plinth. Teased rock-chick hair gave the models a tousled glamour.
Tom Ford’s calling card is that he makes clothes like nobody else. He appears on the London calendar as an international man of mystery who can apparently find an audience for sexed-up, almost pawn-shop looks, but with clothes in such fine fabrics and so beautifully crafted that they form a kind of sexual couture.
Everything fitted not like a glove, but like sheer black stockings, seen rising high on the thigh, flesh visible under a brief hemline.
Decency was maintained with the bell-bottom trousers, flaring out with a tinge of metallic green or pink and silver flowers on a black background. But when a top half ends at the diaphragm with two silver flowers strategically in place above, it is hard to recall some of the less full-on sexy ideas: say a smartly cut suede jacket with leather pockets; or a white dress with black veiling filling the cut-outs at the side.
The show was a roller coaster of seduction. Just when a gilded or silvered dress seemed almost decent, out popped a bondage top with strips of patent leather across the breast.
To be honest, it was all very Gucci, from its Tom Ford glory days. That is what this designer does. He knows his global super-rich clients. And there is surely a market out there for ageing rockers with big money, young, sexy wives and an urge to see a dress that is really an un-dress.
As a show it was fun and the Tom Ford message will vibrate around the world like… Well, a sex toy.
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