Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Suzy Menkes at Milan Fashion Week: Day Three
28 Февраля 2015
It was high tech and high drama at Versace as the Greek key, which has long been one of the company’s signatures, appeared on a giant metallic structure at the back of the runway and as a pattern on sweaters, bags, shoes — and the Internet.
The key motif — make that #greek for a hashtag — was embedded in the quilted suede bags that Donatella Versace was showing off backstage. The symbol was also worked into the Perspex heels of boots that climbed up and away in patent leather and suede until they reached thigh high, under brief dresses.
There are people who might consider it discomforting to build a collection around a reference to a country that is currently in the news more for its debt problems than its ancient history, but this Greek key has long been a Versace symbol. And why would Donatella let a pan-European financial crisis change her fashion plans?
Instead of slashing debt, her eyes were on slashing dresses, which were split up the side and set at an angle as if in a geometry lesson.
In vivid primary shades of scarlet, grass green, and sunshine yellow, leather popped out on the runway, while the few quieter pieces included a compass-drawn cape or a rounded fur.
Since Donatella took her bow in a super-skinny pants suit, narrow trousers were also part of the collection.
The game of keys was mildly challenged by a play on words: ‘Versace’ broken into a mix of letters, which is something I remember from Gianni’s ‘Circus’ collection from so many moons ago.
Donatella did not have much new to say, but the collection was presented con brio. She herself seemed unsure as to what the Greek key hashtag would do or whether it was actually an emoji that could be added on to texts and messages to express yourself. I am tempted to say that it was all Greek to her.
Donatella was adamant about the advantage to Versace of the new digital adventure, however. “I know in my mind and my heart that with the archive — I do not want to look at it any more,” she said. “Thank God for the archive. But now it is time to forget, let go, and think of the future.”
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