Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Milan Fashion Week Day Three
20 Сентября 2014
“Bold and fresh — it’s more sophisticated,” announced Donatella Versace backstage.
She was wearing an all-black look, lit with a narrow, signature Versace Greek pattern around her hips — suited to a show where the invitation was a block of “gold”.
Indeed the show opened with pared-down black tailoring with white stitching running through. The fact that skirts were either short or side-slit and the models balanced on transparent Perspex heels brought a sexy vibe.
The set runway had more transparent glass effects, with blush pink and blue lighting, giving promise of a boudoir.
Those girly colours were picked up on short satin dresses where geometric lines gave the clothes a feeling of modernity.
But really we have seen all this stuff from Donatella before: the peek-a-boo of flesh, thinly veiled with chiffon; more transparency with sportier mesh or laser-cut leather. And, inevitably, that famous Medusa head, mixed with some digital geometric effects to give it a modern spin.
Versace the brand is in a bind. It has to keep in its own loop. But the message just keeps going round and round with a slice of red ribbon here and a shimmering panel of vivid coloured pattern there.
When I saw the wedding dress that Donatella created for her friend Angela Jolie, my eyes pricked with tears at the innocent beauty of the concept and the exquisite workmanship.
I wish that Versace could break through the hard surface and, just for once, send romance, sweetness and love down the runway.
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