Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Suzy Menkes at Paris Fashion Week Day One
4 Марта 2015
“I want it all,’’ said Donatella Versace, seated at the Anthony Vaccarello show between Les Twins, a French dancer-model duo.
Donatella has made Vaccarello, a Belgian designer of super body-conscious clothes, into a star, by picking him to redevelop her Versus line. So it was a fitting tribute that almost every model who sashayed down the runway with a view of the river Seine had stars in her clothes.
But it was a rare outfit that was merely scattered in crystal stardust. Instead, Vaccarello scissored out stars at hip, thigh, back or hem of almost-entirely little black dresses, so that they became windows onto skin.
This might have seemed repetitive, but such was the ingenuity of the designer and so skilful his knife-sharp shapes, that the show became an exercise in imagination.
Just as the seen-it-all feeling welled up, Vaccarello changed colour to a ginger suede with cowboy fringing; added an accessory of tinkling metallic tubes (which looked heavy-handed). But he also played smartly with hemlines (up and down), and with metallic studs that might be on a short skirt inserted under an asymmetrical knee-length dress. Cut-outs at the side of the ribcage were another variation on the theme.
It will not be hard for Vaccarello to be a stylist to those other stars waiting for the perfect show-off but classy outfit.
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