Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Arthur Arbesser: Pairing Art With Fashion
Milan Fashion Week Day Five
22 Сентября 2014
The idea of fashion as art, inspired by art or in collaboration with an artist is nothing new. But Arthur Arbesser’s concept of pairing clothes with existing work is far more original.
Last season’s show had his winter collection facing off art in the apartment of the architect Luca Cipelletti. That was followed for spring/summer 2015 by an art/fashion show in an abandoned Milan garage.
There the modernist work of Carlo Valsecchi, mostly on loan from museums and private collections, was hung as if in a gallery, with models in appropriate pieces from Arbesser’s collection.
So a sporty semi-sheer dress, apparently in nylon but actually in organza, was shown alongside images with a misty lightness.
The story was played out in six rooms, each with carefully chosen artworks, so that a smart blazer was seen near what looked like an explosion of light through velvet darkness. Or a fresh green and cloudy white space was paired with red, white and blue overalls.
This artistic coupling is tough to execute because it requires designer and artist to be kindred spirits in using colour, texture – and imagination.
Valsecchi art and Arbesser’s fashion, curated by Cipelletti, seemed a perfect fit.
There was yet another collaboration in the final room, with a video by artist Samantha Casolari. Meanwhile, the sporty, wearable clothes with a twist of originality were suspended from the ceiling for buyers to view.
A few new inspiring shows from a new generation – as expressed in this final presentation for spring/summer 2015 – suggest that Milan fashion has designers for the future. Let’s hope they can be nurtured and encouraged to grow.