Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
At Versus Versace: Games of Skin
New York Fashion Week Day Three
8 Сентября 2014
Donatella Versace marched out proudly, stonking her high-heeled boots over the black-and-white faux-marble floor, with designer Anthony Vaccarello, in skinny jeans and sneakers, at her side.
I have heard a lot over the years about a designer’s DNA – meaning getting to the heart of a fashion vision. And that happened with the new designer at this Versus Versace collection, which has previously been explored by British designers Christopher Kane and Jonathan Anderson.
I have been following at the Paris shows the Belgian/Italian Vaccarello’s games of skin – flashes of flesh in sharply cut clothes. In New York, it all came together.
As the models posed on scarlet stairs at the start of the after-party, I saw the essence of Versus: bare legs, short skirts, square necklines, sharply tailored coats, shiny black belts, gilded buckles or gold buttons on a split-side, floor-sweeping, sporty gown.
None of this was a revelation. But Vaccarello took the essence of the look and gave it an erotic minimalism - right down to a re-interpretation of the safety pins holding cloth over flesh that put Elizabeth Hurley on the global fashion map 20 years ago.
A soft white shirt with skinny trousers or a tailored shirtdress with Medusa patterning brought the collection forward to this millennium. Like the flesh-revealing black dresses, the collection could have been sliced in half, yet had the same impact.
But this really was a Versus Versace moment.