Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Boucheron: Seduction In The Air
Performance art brings the spirit of the gemstones to life
21 Июля 2016
A man wraps his arm gently around his female partner, she throws her head back in ecstasy as the ring/necklace/bracelet is slipped against her skin.
When the protagonist is Olivier Saillard, the Director of the Musée Galliera in Paris and the inventor of many abstract fashion presentations, the effect was artistic.
Boucheron decided to break out from the familiar style of displays in the epicentre of jewellery in the Place Vendôme. So in front of François-Henri Pinault, CEO of Kering – which owns the jewellery house, Saillard aimed to bring the cold gold and frozen stones to life through performance art.
The movement of humanity and flesh against the static gems was powerful and occasionally seductive, although I would have liked to see a variety of links between human and jewel: for example, why not mother or father making an offering to a daughter? Or a young woman shyly receiving a gemstone? Instead, the body language seemed to suggest that the bigger the stone, the more the passion, which I would describe as a sexist vision.
Yet there was something mesmerising about seeing two or three figures reacting to the stones and to each other. Under the sparkle of a chandelier or lights reflecting on mirrors, there seemed to be an intent to enchant and embrace with diamonds in the hand.
Rather than a static display for its collection, Boucheron commissioned avant-garde curator Olivier Saillard, Director of the Galliera Musée in Paris, to conceive a novel, emotive presentation
A ringside view of the presentation in Paris
What the presentation needed was a layout of the jewels after the live demonstration, allowing the audience to see the stones, not just to feel the magic.
But I was handed sheets with detailed drawings so that I could see themes and shapes in this new Haute Joiallerie (“high jewellery”) season. Once again, as with other high jewellers, wheat sheaves came to the fore in a graceful bracelet with pavé diamonds on white gold. Other effects were white-gold feathers in which rose-cut diamonds snuggled.
This was a case of admiring Saillard’s imaginative presentation and Boucheron’s craftsmanship — but wondering which message to take.
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