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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Bratis: Grecian purism for the 21st century

Milan Fashion Week Day One

18 Сентября 2014

“It’s not just him — it also helps us. It is refreshing to see what other people are doing,” said Giorgio Armani, working on his new collection, while on stage Angelos Bratis, an award-winning Italian designer of Greek origin, showed his summer 2015 collection.

It was a promising start for the Milan season, where the sweet bird of youth is trying to find a voice.

Angelos Bratis opened his show as he meant to continue: with dresses shaped and draped with apparent ease — but actually with great skill. He turned Grecian folds into 21st-century clothes, adding blocks of bright colour to break into the curves.

“I’m not a minimalist — I am a purist,” said Bratis backstage, showing on his mood board the work of Greek artist Yiannis Moralis, with its sensual, even sexual, forms.

Bratis took the sensual side, draping dresses but often breaking up the waterfall of fabric with panels of subtle colour, such as stormy sea blue with grey and light tan. For a brief moment there was a dot of pattern.

He also displayed bold jewellery by Maria Mastori, the shapes snaking around the neck or creating an amulet.

The Bratis short, draped dresses seemed even more convincing than the long, which, with a dropped arm hole, looked a bit too much like Clytemnestra on the operatic stage.

But this was a fine show, setting a new mood of elegant ease in Milan. And Angelo Bratis showed his appreciation for Armani hosting the event by waving a sign with the words: “Thank you, Giorgio”.

Twitter @SuzyMenkesVogue


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