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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Calvin Klein’s Seductive Minimalism

Designer Francisco Costa fakes it with fur

20 Февраля 2016

Calvin Klein, fall 2016 ready-to-wear
Calvin Klein, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

It seems fitting that just at the moment when the timing of American fashion is under discussion, Helmut Lang, the designer who led the concept of showing New York designers first in 1998, should be back on the runways.

Lang is not there personally, of course, because he left fashion to become an artist over a decade ago. But what he stood for - inventive minimalism (for example flat-front trousers) and spare, structured designs with off-key decoration such as dangling strings or feathers trapped under plastic - still reverberate across the fashion stratosphere.

Calvin Klein, fall 2016 ready-to-wear
Calvin Klein, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

I am not claiming that Francisco Costa’s show for Calvin Klein was Helmut re-visited, yet that same feeling of sexually charged minimalism was there, more intellectual than the sensual modernism of the original Calvin in his heyday. The Francisco Costa look has softened in both cut and material since he first showed in 2004. And it was more sexy, especially for black dresses with a deep V at the front.

When outfits were not plunging at the neckline or decorated with dangling black straps, they were made of fur. “Not real fur - it was fun playing with fakes,” said Francisco Costa, whose digital prints of coyote, lynx and skunk were as striking as a trio of mixed checks on a single dress. Costa has worked steadily on re-interpreting minimalism during his tenure at Calvin Klein.

And this season he focused less on fabric inventions and more on ways to ramp up the clean lines - with polished stone inserts or those straps and strings. “Very Helmut” one might say.

из
Calvin Klein, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Calvin Klein, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Calvin Klein, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Calvin Klein, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Calvin Klein, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Calvin Klein, fall 2016 ready-to-wear


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