Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Candy crush: who will win the fashion version?
Forget clearing a jelly or creating a wrapped candy — the current game in fashion is an even more colourful Candy Crush version of its own! There are more designers and executives moving around the big brands than you would find on a video puzzle.
13 Декабря 2014
Out after her final Gucci show in Milan in February is Frida Giannini, creative director — along with her partner in work and life, Patrizio di Marco, Gucci CEO. Will Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy now move into Frida’s hot spot, leaving a space to fill at his current house? That is the rumour. It would mean Riccardo leaving luxury group LVMH and moving to its rival Kering – not unlike Nicolas Ghesquière leaving Kering’s Balenciaga and joining LVMH’s Louis Vuitton last year.
And what about Christopher Kane, the brilliant young British designer now owned by Kering? Kane worked with Donatella Versace in Milan. Would he be a good fit for Gucci?
But there are so many more Candy Crush opportunities. Young, virile fashion designer Olivier Rousteing at Balmain is still in place. But he has had to face the sad and sudden recent death of Balmain CEO Alain Hivelin.
”In my heart, I would wish for young designers not to get hooked on this fascinating but dangerous game”
Another smart young designer, Guillaume Henry, has left Carven for Nina Ricci, filling a designer space vacated by Peter Copping — who has in turn gone to Oscar de la Renta in New York, following the sad death of the founder last month.
Who else is moving and shaking? Peter Dundas might be tempted to leave Pucci and go back to Roberto Cavalli where he enjoyed early success.
Already colourful Candy Crushes are lined up: Hermès has appointed Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski as creative director; she was a hit at The Row in New York. Ditto for Tod’s creative director Alessandra Facchinetti. She trained at Gucci, was briefly at Valentino, and is now under the wing of Diego Della Valle of Tod’s. Marco Zanini is out at Schiaparelli leaving yet another vacancy.
And other young designer collaborations include, in Paris, Alexander Wang’s designs for Balenciaga. In Milan, Anthony Vaccarello is working at Versus for Versace. While in New York, German brand Hugo Boss picked up Jason Wu, one of Michelle Obama’s favourite designers.
Just like in video games, there are big winners and stark eliminations.
In my heart, I would wish for young designers not to get hooked on this fascinating but dangerous game. There may be an instant buzz, but I think that a long and steady — for example, as for Alber Elbaz at Lanvin — is the way to lasting fashion happiness.
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