Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Chanel: Karl Lagerfeld's film noir
Chanel’s Métiers d'Art "Paris in Rome 2015/16" show was the complex story of Cinecittà and the Rome of Marcello Mastroianni
3 Декабря 2015
Surrounded by Chanel's romantic cliché of a Parisian street — all bakers, cheesemakers and cafés, Princess Caroline of Monaco summed up in a few heartfelt words the evocative black-and-white movie set at Rome's Cinecittà studios.
"In the current circumstances, it was rather touching," she said.
Indeed. This was Karl Lagerfeld's ode to Paris and the French film connection with Rome, dreamt up long before the tragic events of last month in the French capital. "I don't think there has ever been a time when France and Italy have been closer," said Karl, referring to the Cinecittà post-war period. "But I didn't know when we started the idea of Paris in Rome that it would be the best moment to show a perfect, romantic Paris - when in reality it is the opposite."
A giant-check tweed reefer jacket covered with Cellophane mesh and worn over an off-white and ivory tweed dress and lace tights
Chanel’s nostalgic set of Paris in the happy old days
Karl was inspired by French actresses who were dressed by Chanel in Italian movies. They included Anouk Aimée, Jeanne Moreau and Delphine Seyrig - although it is unlikely that the glamorous international clients gathered for the event would have even heard of these stars of a Parisian past. The strange thing about this Chanel Métiers d'Art collection, designed to celebrate couture craftsmanship, is that it seemed plunged in nostalgia.
Unusually for Lagerfeld, a designer who embraces the future, the clothes were built on threads of the past from hefty tweed trousers, which Karl called Palazzo Pyjamas, to black lace trickling down body and legs into two-tone mules with pearl heels.
The sexual side of the show included short "oh là là!" skirts and the sensual lace. But that too seemed, however appealing to clients, to belong to a please-your-man past. The massacre in Paris turned this collection, already wistfully
At a fitting, where one can appreciate the intricacy of the creations
The hair and make-up test
"Une Nuit A Paris" poster
Film noir at Rome’s Cinecittà, the epicentre of Italian film and Chanel’s Paris in Rome 2015/16 collection, dreamt up by Karl Lagerfeld
A photograph of actress Jeanne Moreau on set with Italian film director Michelangelo Antonioni
Mariacarla Bocsono - the elegance of Paris, the glamour of Italy - at Chanel in Rome
At the fitting one can admire the depth of craftsmanship, which is hard to grasp on the runway