Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Costume National: Back to Black
Suzy Menkes at Milan Fashion Week: Day Two
28 Февраля 2015
Backstage, Ennio Capasa was in a reflective mood about his Costume National line, which was the essence of Nineties cool and one of the rare Milan names with an international streetwise allure.
“I don’t have stimulation from the fashion world. There is pop, there is vintage; so many things that don’t give much. I need to re-think my past,” the designer said.
The result of that fashion soul searching was the Amy Winehouse mantra: “Back to Black”. Capasa called the collection “minimal chic”, “music inspired”, and included an ode to creatures of the night in the form of huge artworks of birds by Alberto Tadiello, whose images of owls were displayed at the show entrance.
The clothes were dark, although iron grey and ink blue came among with black. And texture ruled the runway, with wool, silk, velvet, and so much more used to give surface interest. Literally on top of that came metallic decoration that might contrast with the flow of a soft dress.
I tried to think what was indisputably from now. Techno fabrics, which had not been developed last century and which Capasa said he has used a lot inside the clothes. Then there were feathers, which the designer used today as an intriguing surface for a dress.
The show was streamlined and modern. But Ennio Capasa cannot really re-set the past. Like any other artist, he just has to look forward, not back.
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