Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
2 Февраля 2015
Who needs any more proof that self-confident men’s fashion is taking over from the timid women’s offering?
The first ever Alta Sartoria collection from Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana followed hard on the ballet-slipper heels of the women’s Alta Moda.
The two haute couture shows in Milan on consecutive days were aimed at the same customers: the global super rich. The idea was to give a second chance to the men to open their wallets – this time for themselves.
I was stunned – and rather envious – of the fantastical embroideries on men’s velvet jackets, which Stefano showed me on display in the palazzo before the show.
On the runway, the men’s day clothes were noticeably just that little bit more decorative and fanciful than the women’s: glam buttons here, a fur collar there, even ermine tails on one white fur scarf.
White? Yes, it seems to be the new summer shade for oligarchs and their like, as they swoosh out in floor-length greatcoats.
As for the shoes – while women had to be content with delicately embroidered hose, the men’s footwear rocked, from colourful crocodile brogues to the currently on-sale gilt-embroidered velvet evening slippers. Potential clients were wearing them at the show in the middle of the day – no guilt attached.
If a man wants to be noticed for the cut of his brocade jacket, Dolce & Gabbana’s Alta Sartoria is about as high, in craftsmanship, quality and style, as men’s fashion can get.
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