“I have always wanted to empower women,” — said Donna Karan of her architectural collection, which followed the female bodyline — with a drape here and there to break the geometry.
The designer also spoke admiringly of Louise Wilson, the late professor of fashion design at Central Saint Martins, whose memorial she will attend in London on Friday.
Louise worked at Donna Karan from 1997 — 2002, and helped define the spirit of the brand.
“Power and Poetry” was the title of the Autumn 2015 collection, and it explained the gentle face-off between strict tailoring and soft fabrics.
Against the backdrop of New York at night, the clothes were streamlined, rich in texture, often with a softening drape at the waist.
Fabric was key, with fur or an artisinal weave softening the tailoring that was the show’s bedrock.
The sleek look broke into a gentler evening style, with legs lightly veiled in chiffon. And this Donna Karan show seemed purposeful and to the point, while previously the brand had meandered.