Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Elie Saab: A Nostalgic Trip Home
Suzy Menkes at Couture: Day Four
29 Января 2015
The trees lining the ‘road ‘ that took the models from backstage to the bank of runway photographers had a deeper meaning than a catwalk for designer Elie Saab.
In a folder with a poetic storyline and peaceful pictures of his childhood home, the designer went back to the swaying laurel trees of his native Lebanon in the Sixties.
So the show had greenery down the tree-filled runway, suggesting a lazy, hazy afternoon. The collection spoke in soft and gentle colours: the pink of a pallid dawn, the green of olive trees and some exquisite applications of colourful butterflies.
Perhaps the glittering crystals at the start of the collection — and throughout — were meant to suggest sun glittering on water.
But, like every outfit on the runway, they spoke instead of Hollywood, rather than the show’s title, “A Riviera in the Levant.”
I respect Elie Saab for offering in this couture collection what his studio makes so beautifully: dresses for the red carpet — mostly long, but sometimes short and bouncy for Hollywood cuties.
I appreciated the techniques of draped chiffon, the delicate paillettes of tulips and the exceptional effects of lace cut-outs.
Yet it would have been good to see less obvious flesh, even if only semi-visible legs draped with chiffon.