Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Emanuel Ungaro in Black and White
Suzy Menkes at Paris Fashion Week: Day Six
10 Марта 2015
“I adore colours and women — and this time I wanted to celebrate black and white as colours, as a party — in an Ungaro way,” said designer Fausto Puglisi.
Emanuel Ungaro’s vivid, frou frou legacy drained of colour!
But Fausto was not so off message. By limiting himself to these two shades, he showed their variety and diversity in texture, and in the masculine-feminine play of shapes.
The mood board was dedicated to Charlotte Rampling, and to YSL in his tuxedo years. The show opened with a tuxedo, in black with a white collar and high-waisted trousers. A jaunty trilby hat completed the masculine vision.
Was this an ode to the more mannish side of the Sixties and Seventies? Women appearing covered in polka dots, perhaps on a floor-length skirt, were a frequent counterpoint to plain black.
Fausto can cut a mean coat, and those clean, geometric lines balanced the softness of long pleated trousers.
In fact pleats were a major element, set at an angle across the body, or as a miniskirt decorated with more polka dots. A third dimension came as fluffy balls on a string.
Puglisi, like Emanuel Ungaro before him, is quintessentially Italian in his unabashed enthusiasm for body-conscious clothes. But he toned down the sensuality to make the tailored garments more sensitive to the character of 21st-century women.
Although this focus on black and white became what the French call an ‘exercise in style’, it was expertly done and gives a fashion face to a brand that had blanked out.
Next season though: Colour.
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