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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Emilio Pucci — Into the Digital Universe

The aristocratic fashion house moves fast-forward on sport and print

28 Февраля 2016

Emilio Pucci, fall 2016 ready-to-wear
Emilio Pucci, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Emilio Pucci stood for three things: sport, pattern and the birth of the jet set in an international upper-class world. In his second outing for the house, Massimo Giorgetti took a big step forward — as did his models in their pointy-toe flat or knee-high hiking boots.

The collection felt clinical, but it was right on-message with a bold mountain design digitally printed on dresses or on a bomber jacket with stretch pants. It was a backward glance at Emilio Pucci’s beginnings as a designer of skiwear. Yet at the same time everything was different: 3-D printing immersing the surface; stretch fabrics in motion with the body.

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Emilio Pucci, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Emilio Pucci, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Emilio Pucci, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Emilio Pucci, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Emilio Pucci, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Emilio Pucci, fall 2016 ready-to-wear


The result is a 21st-century language that is also found in the designer’s own successful line — MSGM. What stood out for Pucci today was the intensity of colour, as in an oversize coat that was almost a hazard-warning orange, or, in contrast, a sweet rubbery pink for a big, bold sweater where inserts of ropes gave a frisson of sexual energy. 

What a difference one season can make! Massimo Giorgetti had an awkward start, but for A/W 2016 he’s hit his fashion stride. I thought from his first show that he had a mountain to climb. He did it in an energetic way.

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Emilio Pucci, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Emilio Pucci, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Emilio Pucci, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Emilio Pucci, fall 2016 ready-to-wear


There must have been sighs of relief from the line-up of LVMH executives. The fact that Alexandre Arnault, the young, digitally savvy son of Bernard Arnault, sat next to Laudomia Pucci, daughter of the founder, was a neat metaphor for a brand on the move.

Emilio Pucci, fall 2016 ready-to-wear
Emilio Pucci, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

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