Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Erdem: Remaking the Imagination
Suzy Menkes at London Fashion Week: Day Four
24 Февраля 2015
The little rooms adjacent to the Erdem runway were done up like private spaces, home to someone who reads many books and still uses a typewriter.
I recognised these interiors from an installation at London’s Frieze Masters last autumn — a commission by the Helly Nahmad Gallery, created by production designer Robin Brown.
Backstage, Erdem explained so much more: his fascination with fashionable film figures from history — Romy Schneider in Visconti ‘s Boccaccio ’70, Kim Novak in Hitchcock’s Vertigo, and Claudia Cardinale in Visconti’s Sandra.
The designer was fascinated by the idea that a person today might take apart clothes from the era of these films and remake them.
This thrift shop makeover seemed a dubious proposition, until I saw the eerily beautiful dresses, cut and pasted and finished off with whispers of feathers.
A stand-out dress seemed to move film-like from silk to burnt-out velvet, without even a seam to show where and how the magic began.
For the last couple of seasons Erdem has pushed himself, moving away from dresses that seemed destined for a fashionable, upper-crust customer.
Already last season he challenged that with a collection devoted to the plants in a Victorian conservatory.
This collection was a further step forward for his creativity, resulting in these beautiful clothes, remade not just with a sewing basket, but in the imagination.
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