You are viewing the Russian Vogue website. If you prefer another country’s Vogue website, select from the list

Хотите получать уведомления о самых важных новостях из мира моды? Да, подписаться

Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Existential Angst: What's Cool Today?

New York designers find different ways of creating 21st-century modernism

18 Февраля 2016

Hood by Air, fall 2016 ready-to-wear
Hood by Air, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Attention grabbing is the essence of off-key fashion. To be cool, you have to shock with flashes of flesh, gender bending and cross dressing. Or do you? Is that really a modern attitude?

Hood by Air 

I sense here in New York an existential angst about what is now anti-establishment. Men teetering down the runway in high-heeled boots at Hood by Air — awn. This concept of 'shocking!' seemed passé. Despite this, the plastic wrapped furry coats, the baggy tops and bottoms with some bare flesh in between brought plenty of energy to the runway. 

из
Hood by Air, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Hood by Air, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Hood by Air, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Hood by Air, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Hood by Air, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Hood by Air, fall 2016 ready-to-wear


Public School

Then there was the set at Public School that consisted of an artist's gallery filled with sculptures created from dead horses and a catwalk that required walking round a pile of wood. The clothes fitted into the purposeful spirit of modern design, opening with a large shocking pink coat and the look developing as laminated ribs on oversize sweaters or large leather motorcycle jackets. All this was anchored with hefty buckle boots.

из
Public School, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Public School, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Public School, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Public School, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Public School, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Public School, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Public School, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Public School, fall 2016 ready-to-wear


Dion Lee

So what is today's definition of cool? Sometimes a simple gesture can make clothes seem right for the times. I found the metallic rings that Dion Lee used as compass points for clothes, which circled the body, a smart way of creating fashion geometry. The collection went on to use silvered lines of metallic decoration that also looked purposeful. The designer summed up his work with a string of words that expressed modernity in fashion: “aperture, optics, piercing, pleating, circle-cut knitwear and crystal pleated silk”.

из
Dion Lee, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Dion Lee, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Dion Lee, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Dion Lee, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Dion Lee, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Dion Lee, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Dion Lee, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Dion Lee, fall 2016 ready-to-wear


3.1 Phillip Lim

The 3.1 Phillip Lim collection, shown in a bloody red glow of lighting, seemed to try much too hard to be hip. Why did there have to be such drama over the sporty clothes? The mixes of army khaki, green and earthy browns already set the tone, and the utility pieces with Japanese kimono shapes made a fine mix. Taken apart, there were excellently designed pieces; together they seemed too cool for fashion's school. 

из
3.1 Phillip Lim, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

3.1 Phillip Lim, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

3.1 Phillip Lim, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

3.1 Phillip Lim, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

3.1 Phillip Lim, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

3.1 Phillip Lim, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

3.1 Phillip Lim, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

3.1 Phillip Lim, fall 2016 ready-to-wear


Prabal Gurung

Prabal Gurung went for a sophisticated look, while keeping to the concept of enlarged size for a bold duffel coat with a sweeping fur collar or for dresses patterned with ginkgo leaves. The show notes suggested inspiration from Henri Rousseau's Woman Walking in an Exotic Forest. I saw instead women going about their daily lives in loosely fitting subtly decorated clothes — which is no bad thing.

из
Prabal Gurung, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Prabal Gurung, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Prabal Gurung, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Prabal Gurung, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Prabal Gurung, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Prabal Gurung, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Prabal Gurung, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Prabal Gurung, fall 2016 ready-to-wear


Opening Ceremony

As I sat for an hour waiting for the Opening Ceremony's technical problems to be sorted, I had a good look at the set filled with space-mobiles. They turned out to be part of the Sci-Fi inspirations that included T-shirts sporting designs in a collaboration with Syd Mead, the artist behind the images of the movies Blade Runner and Star Trek. Design duo Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have a grip on 21st-century modernism as it segued into futurism. Hence the digital colours, tactile fabrics and an overall sense that tomorrow has arrived.

из
Opening Ceremony, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Opening Ceremony, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Opening Ceremony, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Opening Ceremony, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Opening Ceremony, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Opening Ceremony, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Opening Ceremony, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Opening Ceremony, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Opening Ceremony, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Opening Ceremony, fall 2016 ready-to-wear


Jeremy Scott

Jeremy Scott's unabashed expression of kitsch in clothing came as a relief from fashion angst. He called his collection “Cowboys and Poodles”, which brought brightly coloured vaguely Western outfits, including cow hide prints. Pop art is the Jeremy Scott calling card. This season he had denim aprons, hair dressers' tools printed on the back and front of sweat shirts and cow hide patterned boots – the better to stride forth into fashion's happy valley.

из
Jeremy Scott, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Jeremy Scott, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Jeremy Scott, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Jeremy Scott, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Jeremy Scott, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Jeremy Scott, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Jeremy Scott, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Jeremy Scott, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Jeremy Scott

Jeremy Scott


Instagram @SuzyMenkesVogue
Twitter @SuzyMenkesVogue
Facebook.com/SuzyMenkes

еще в разделе Suzy Menkes

Existential Angst: What's Cool Today?

Stretching out for modern freedom

Body con loosens up at Oscar de La Renta and Narciso Rodriguez

Existential Angst: What's Cool Today?

#SuzyNYFW: Rodarte’s blood flow of imagination

Lace, leather, and lilies in the hair bring an eerie beauty to the Mulleavy sisters’ show

Existential Angst: What's Cool Today?

#SuzyNYFW: Downtown meets Uptown in Gentrified New York

Carolina Herrera, Tory Burch, Thom Browne, Derek Lam and Zac Posen are the barometers of social change

комментарии / 0

оставить комментарий

самое популярное

15 самых модных клипов Бьорк ко дню рождения певицы
Новости 15 самых модных клипов Бьорк ко дню рождения певицы

Как подруга покойного Александра Маккуина, муза дизайнеров, стилистов и тысяч фанатов по всему миру повлияла на моду нашего времени

Самые роскошно одетые девушки церемонии «Женщина года» Glamour 2017
Выход в свет Самые роскошно одетые девушки церемонии «Женщина года» Glamour 2017

Ольга Шелест, Аня Чиповская, Ирина Николаева, Светлана Лобода и другие


подписка на журнал

Для Вас все самое интересное
и свежее в мире моды

VOGUE на планшете

Свежий номер журнала
по специальной цене

VOGUE на iphone

Скачайте
по специальной цене!

VOGUE коллекции

Для iPhone
и iPad

Vogue Россия
в Facebook

Vogue Россия
в Vkontakte

Vogue Россия
в Twitter

Видео-канал
VOGUE Россия

vogue россия
в instagram

Instagram

Самые яркие
фото VOGUE.ru