Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Milan Fashion Week Day One
18 Сентября 2014
If Julius Caesar had gone clubbing, he would surely have looked like this: gladiator sandals stomping over an illuminated checkerboard floor.
Then robes in more checks, like mosaics from Herculaneum. And a sense of orderly geometry at every turn.
The collection that Fausto Puglisi sent out to the blasting music of Daft Punk was graphic, dramatic and to the point.
The designer, after working in Hollywood, has a cinematic vision of fashion. Each garment – perhaps a skirt as stiff as a cornet flaring out at the hem, or a tailored piece doused in sharp colours of orange and lime – seemed like part of a modernist movie set.
The designer even cited the idea of “Star Wars meets Barbarella” and a tribute to Stanley Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey. He also referred to the fashion maestros of the Sixties: André Courrèges and Rudi Gernreich.
But the intriguing thing about Fausto is that for all his references – going right back to ancient Rome – his designs look rigorously contemporary.
The geometric patterns and iridescent surfaces could surely be created only on computer and in a digitalised world. Although he has been compared to a young Gianni Versace, that designer too was pre-digital.
Fausto may willingly admit his references. But the result is resolutely and explosively contemporary.
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