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Suzy Menkes

Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.

Fendi: Making Waves

Pulled into the gravitational force of fashion

10 Марта 2016

Fendi, fall 2016 ready-to-wear
Fendi, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

Karl Lagerfeld had the words for his Fendi collection even before I had seen the rhythmic patterns on furs, blouses, bags and even boots.

"Gravitational pull," said the designer whom I had not expected to focus as much on the recent discoveries about Albert Einstein's space-time ripples as he does about creating furs for Fendi. But dynamic duo Karl and Silvia Venturini Fendi have done it again.

They have been on a roll for the last few seasons and this time it was literal. Everything was presented on wavy lines from a ruffled neckline to horizontal stripes.

Even bags and footwear expressed the same softening spirit, with what looked like leather undulating from the knee down. For the furs themselves, the effect of the swirling decoration could seem romantic: for example a white stole with wavy lines in stripes of sour colours or sleeves whipped up like surf.

Fendi, fall 2016 ready-to-wear
Fendi, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

As though nature was having a little tassel with science, decoration ultimately developed as flowers jacquard-woven into the fur or patterns were placed on sleek gold coats. But Karl seemed to get the science of fashion. For frills to seem modern is rare, but there we were watching the clothes pulsating as if with the gravitational pull. They were an ode to modernity, not prettiness.

The show started slowly, with short dresses where the accessories seemed more intriguing than the clothes. But that was surely scientifically planned too. With Fendi bags and decorative fluffy things as cult items, why not focus on them?

The real point is that Fendi has become a red hot label, whether science or art - or both - have done the trick.

Fendi, fall 2016 ready-to-wear
Fendi, fall 2016 ready-to-wear

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