Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Milan Fashion Week Day One
18 Сентября 2014
Alberta Ferretti is a princess of fashion fragility. The delicacy of her work for spring-summer 2015 included nude chiffon with pleats so tiny they looked as though they had come from the fingers of fairies.
Flowers came in bowers, the petals spreading over a dress. Even denim in her hands looked as soft as silk.
But the intriguing thing about the Ferretti show is that red-carpet glamour had been exchanged for a delicate kind of casual. New looks from the designer included airy chiffon trousers, or there was cowboy fringing, as seen in the Seventies.
What had melted away was anything body conscious or curvy.
Alberta Ferretti does not have a vulgar bone in her body, so her red-carpet looks in the past were always gentle and tasteful.
But just the idea of using denim and treating it with cut-work showed a new kind of sporty casualness. The flowers formed a secret garden on the bodice, with nothing lush or sensual.
It is important for designers to move forward and Ferretti did that gracefully. Now let’s dream that the A-listers follow her lead and take a gentler approach to dressing up.
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